Chinese-American Chef Anita Lo wanted a soft opening for her new place. Was she kidding? Before she could say "bok choy," her intimate, off-white nook was abuzz with doe-eyed couples of every stripe and persuasion, seduced by the intriguing wines from only women vintners and Lo's quetly transporting cuisine. Shanghainese soup dumplings are reinterpreted with seared foies gras; amazing roast chicken comes with a luscious stuffing of pig's feet. "This is my third dinner here in a week", confesses my neighbor.